October 26th, 2003
Olympic Peninsula

We take the ferry to Vashon Island and ride in the sun from one end to the other. We ride through farmland and woodland, Mt. Rainier is visible in the southeast, towering and snowy from far away. Once again our departure from the city is encouraged by good weather. The noise pollution in our one visit to downtown Seattle had made both of us long for the countryside and we are happy to be on the road again. After leaving the ferry we continue to ride near the water through suburbia, trying not at all to follow the directions we were given for Olympia. Miraculously we stay on the right path. Still in the suburbs, we find a place to camp, in the “woods” where people bring their dogs to crap. We visit the local bar to enjoy some American culture. The flag outside leads way to an atmosphere where it seems to be all about “hard rock”, tucked in shirts, tight jeans, and crew cuts. Some of these things possibly the effect of the nearby Army Base. The next morning we follow the beautiful Nesqually river fresh and early and arrive in Olympia. Just outside of town we meet up and join a protest against the war in Iraq, it seems to be well received by passing motorists except for those who choose to yell out their windows about how “un-patriotic” or “un-Christian” they think we are. In the early afternoon at Irene’s parents house. Richard and Ramona welcome us wholeheartedly, we set up our tent and it’s off to visit the town. The farmer’s market is almost closed for the day, but we have the time to get some provisions. Our visit there is marked by many good omens and by generosity and kindness. A kind lady donates a homemade jam to our initiative (it would have cost us seven bucks). A little blue eyed baby grabs onto Johanne and stars at us with an incredibly piercing gaze, seeming to impart a profound message. While we pay for some apples the elderly cashier looks strait at Johanne, observing her jade necklace and says “This means good luck, especially in adventure”. A really nice guy from Equador talked to us for about half an hour about South America, before we leave he tells us that we are wearing the colors of hope (blue) and life (red), and gives us his best friend’s address in Equador. We hit the bike shop just before it closes and realize we need to buy a new wheel for Bertrand, the bike man Larry gives us lots of pointers and helps us with whatever mechanical questions we have.

We leave Olympia heading north? Yes, we’re heading around the Olympic Peninsula on the Pan-American Highway, highway 101. Our first evening we stop near a seedy bar to find a place to camp. We ask a red faced man if we can camp on his property and are refused. It’s only when we’re knocking on his neighbor’s door that Johanne realizes something’s wrong. The T.V. is on and we hear someone moving but no-one comes to the door, the place across the road has boarded up windows and smoke is coming out of the chimney. There are entirely too many no-trespassing signs, and the kenneled dogs nearby seem extra fierce. We are sketched out and leave, our camp spot is on a deserted track that leads up off the road a little ways farther. While we’re eating breakfast a man approaches us. 90% of people are a problem he says “I think one is made to live a long life in order to lose all one’s faith”.